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Chapter 12 - AWAITING THE CROZIER PARTY
Scott's Last Expedition - The Journals of Captain R.
F. Scott
Contents
and Preface Chapters:
Chapter 1 |
Chapter 2 |
Chapter 3 |
Chapter 4 |
Chapter 5 |
Chapter 6 |
Chapter 7 |
Chapter 8 |
Chapter 9 |
Chapter 10 |
Chapter 11 |
Chapter 12 |
Chapter 13 |
Chapter 14 |
Chapter 15 |
Chapter 16 |
Chapter 17 |
Chapter 18 |
Chapter 19 |
Chapter 20 |
Appendix
Summary
(2 pages) of the
Terra Nova Expedition |
The Men
of the Expedition
Friday, June 23-- Saturday,
June 24
Two quiet, uneventful days
and a complete return to routine.
Sunday, June 25
I find I have made no mention
of Cherry-Garrard's first number of the revived
South Polar Times , presented to me on Midwinter
Day.
It is a very good little volume, bound by Day in
a really charming cover of carved venesta wood and
sealskin. The contributors are anonymous, but I
have succeeded in guessing the identity of the greater
number.
The Editor has taken a statistical paper of my own
on the plans for the Southern Journey and a well-written
serious article on the Geological History of our
region by Taylor. Except for editorial and meteorological
notes the rest is conceived in the lighter vein.
The verse is mediocre except perhaps for a quaint
play of words in an amusing little skit on the sleeping-bag
argument; but an article entitled 'Valhalla' appears
to me to be altogether on a different level. It
purports to describe the arrival of some of our
party at the gates proverbially guarded by St. Peter;
the humour is really delicious and nowhere at all
forced. In the jokes of a small community it is
rare to recognise one which would appeal to an outsider,
but some of the happier witticisms of this article
seem to me fit for wider circulation than our journal
enjoys at present. Above all there is distinct literary
merit in it--a polish which leaves you unable to
suggest the betterment of a word anywhere.
I unhesitatingly attribute this effort to Taylor,
but Wilson and Garrard make Meares responsible for
it. If they are right I shall have to own that my
judgment of attributes is very much at fault. I
must find out. [25]
A quiet day. Read Church Service as usual; in afternoon
walked up the Ramp with Wilson to have a quiet talk
before he departs. I wanted to get his ideas as
to the scientific work done.
We agreed as to the exceptionally happy organisation
of our party.
I took the opportunity to warn Wilson concerning
the desirability of complete understanding with
Ponting and Taylor with respect to their photographs
and records on their return to civilisation.
The weather has been very mysterious of late; on
the 23rd and 24th it continuously threatened a blizzard,
but now the sky is clearing again with all signs
of fine weather.
Monday, June 26
With a clear sky it was quite
twilighty at noon to-day. Already such signs of
day are inspiriting. In the afternoon the wind arose
with drift and again the prophets predicted a blizzard.
After an hour or two the wind fell and we had a
calm, clear evening and night. The blizzards proper
seem to be always preceded by an overcast sky in
accordance with Simpson's theory.
Taylor gave a most interesting lecture on the physiographic
features of the region traversed by his party in
the autumn. His mind is very luminous and clear
and he treated the subject with a breadth of view
which was delightful. The illustrative slides were
made from Debenham's photographs, and many of them
were quite beautiful. Ponting tells me that Debenham
knows quite a lot about photography and goes to
work in quite the right way.
The lecture being a precis of Taylor's report there
is no need to recapitulate its matter. With the
pictures it was startling to realise the very different
extent to which tributary glaciers have carved the
channels in which they lie. The Canadian Glacier
lies dead, but at 'grade' it has cut a very deep
channel. The 'double curtain' hangs at an angle
of 25°, with practically no channel. Mention
was made of the difference of water found in Lake
Bonney by me in December 1903 and the Western Party
in February 1911. It seems certain that water must
go on accumulating in the lake during the two or
three summer months, and it is hard to imagine that
all can be lost again by the winter's evaporation.
If it does, 'evaporation' becomes a matter of primary
importance.
There was an excellent picture showing the find
of sponges on the Koettlitz Glacier. Heaps of large
sponges were found containing corals and some shells,
all representative of present-day fauna. How on
earth did they get to the place where found? There
was a good deal of discussion on the point and no
very satisfactory solution offered. Cannot help
thinking that there is something in the thought
that the glacier may have been weighted down with
rubble which finally disengaged itself and allowed
the ice to rise. Such speculations are interesting.
Preparations for the start of the Crozier Party
are now completed, and the people will have to drag
253 lbs. per man--a big weight.
Day has made an excellent little blubber lamp for
lighting; it has an annular wick and talc chimney;
a small circular plate over the wick conducts the
heat down and raises the temperature of combustion,
so that the result is a clear white flame.
We are certainly within measurable distance of using
blubber in the most effective way for both heating
and lighting, and this is an advance which is of
very high importance to the future of Antarctic
Exploration.
Tuesday, June 27
The Crozier Party departed
this morning in good spirits--their heavy load was
distributed on two 9-feet sledges. Ponting photographed
them by flashlight and attempted to get a cinematograph
picture by means of a flash candle. But when the
candle was ignited it was evident that the light
would not be sufficient for the purpose and there
was not much surprise when the film proved a failure.
The three travellers found they could pull their
load fairly easily on the sea ice when the rest
of us stood aside for the trial. I'm afraid they
will find much more difficulty on the Barrier, but
there was nothing now to prevent them starting,
and off they went.
With helping contingent I went round the Cape. Taylor
and Nelson left at the Razor Back Island and report
all well. Simpson, Meares and Gran continued and
have not yet returned.
Gran just back on ski; left party at 5 1/4 miles.
Says Meares and Simpson are returning on foot. Reports
a bad bit of surface between Tent Island and Glacier
Tongue. It was well that the party had assistance
to cross this.
This winter travel is a new and bold venture, but
the right men have gone to attempt it. All good
luck go with them.
Coal Consumption
Bowers reports that present consumption (midwinter)
= 4 blocks per day (100 lbs.).
An occasional block is required for the absolute
magnetic hut. He reports 8 1/2 tons used since landing.
This is in excess of 4 blocks per day as follows:
8 1/2 tons in 150 days = 127 lbs. per diem. = 889
lbs. per week, or nearly 8 cwt. = 20 1/2 tons per
year.
Report August 4.
Used to date = 9 tons = 20,160 lbs.
Say 190 days at 106 lbs. per day.
Coal remaining 20 1/2 tons.
Estimate 8 tons to return of ship.
Total estimate for year, 17 tons. We should have
13 or 14 tons for next year.
A FRESH MS. BOOK
Quotations on the Flyleaf
'Where the (Queen's) Law does not carry it is irrational
to exact an observance of other and weaker rules.'--RUDYARD
KIPLING.
Confident of his good intentions but doubtful of
his fortitude.
'So far as I can venture to offer an opinion on
such a matter, the purpose of our being in existence,
the highest object that human beings can set before
themselves is not the pursuit of any such chimera
as the annihilation of the unknown; but it is simply
the unwearied endeavour to remove its boundaries
a little further from our little sphere of action.'--HUXLEY.
Wednesday, June 28
The temperature has been hovering
around -30° with a clear sky--at midday it was
exceptionally light, and even two hours after noon
I was able to pick my way amongst the boulders of
the Ramp. We miss the Crozier Party. Lectures have
ceased during its absence, so that our life is very
quiet.
Thursday, June 29
It seemed rather stuffy in
the hut last night--I found it difficult to sleep,
and noticed a good many others in like case. I found
the temperature was only 50°, but that the small
uptake on the stove pipe was closed. I think it
would be good to have a renewal of air at bed time,
but don't quite know how to manage this.
It was calm all night and when I left the hut at
8.30. At 9 the wind suddenly rose to 40 m.p.h. and
at the same moment the temperature rose 10°.
The wind and temperature curves show this sudden
simultaneous change more clearly than usual. The
curious circumstance is that this blow comes out
of a clear sky. This will be disturbing to our theories
unless the wind drops again very soon.
The wind fell within an hour almost as suddenly
as it had arisen; the temperature followed, only
a little more gradually. One may well wonder how
such a phenomenon is possible. In the middle of
a period of placid calm and out of a clear sky there
suddenly rushed upon one this volume of comparatively
warm air; it has come and gone like the whirlwind.
Whence comes it and whither goeth?
Went round the bergs after lunch on ski--splendid
surface and quite a good light.
We are now getting good records with the tide gauge
after a great deal of trouble. Day has given much
of his time to the matter, and after a good deal
of discussion has pretty well mastered the principles.
We brought a self-recording instrument from New
Zealand, but this was passed over to Campbell. It
has not been an easy matter to manufacture one for
our own use. The wire from the bottom weight is
led through a tube filled with paraffin as in Discovery
days, and kept tight by a counter weight after passage
through a block on a stanchion rising 6 feet above
the floe.
In his first instrument Day arranged for this wire
to pass around a pulley, the revolution of which
actuated the pen of the recording drum. This should
have been successful but for the difficulty of making
good mechanical connection between the recorder
and the pulley. Backlash caused an unreliable record,
and this arrangement had to be abandoned. The motion
of the wire was then made to actuate the recorder
through a hinged lever, and this arrangement holds,
but days and even weeks have been lost in grappling
the difficulties of adjustment between the limits
of the tide and those of the recording drum; then
when all seemed well we found that the floe was
not rising uniformly with the water. It is hung
up by the beach ice. When we were considering the
question of removing the whole apparatus to a more
distant point, a fresh crack appeared between it
and the shore, and on this 'hinge' the floe seems
to be moving more freely.
Friday, June 30, 1911
The temperature is steadily
falling; we are descending the scale of negative
thirties and to-day reached its limit, -39°.
Day has manufactured a current vane, a simple arrangement:
up to the present he has used this near the Cape.
There is little doubt, however, that the water movement
is erratic and irregular inside the islands, and
I have been anxious to get observations which will
indicate the movement in the 'Strait.' I went with
him to-day to find a crack which I thought must
run to the north from Inaccessible Island. We discovered
it about 2 to 2 1/2 miles out and found it to be
an ideal place for such work, a fracture in the
ice sheet which is constantly opening and therefore
always edged with thin ice. Have told Day that I
think a bottle weighted so as to give it a small
negative buoyancy, and attached to a fine line,
should give as good results as his vane and would
be much handier. He now proposes to go one better
and put an electric light in the bottle.
We found that our loose dogs had been attacking
a seal, and then came across a dead seal which had
evidently been worried to death some time ago. It
appears Demetri saw more seal further to the north,
and this afternoon Meares has killed a large one
as well as the one which was worried this morning.
It is good to find the seals so close, but very
annoying to find that the dogs have discovered their
resting-place.
The long spell of fine weather is very satisfactory.
Saturday, July 1, 1911
We have designed new ski boots
and I think they are going to be a success. My object
is to stick to the Huitfeldt binding for sledging
if possible. One must wear finnesko on the Barrier,
and with finnesko alone a loose binding is necessary.
For this we brought 'Finon' bindings, consisting
of leather toe straps and thong heel binding. With
this arrangement one does not have good control
of his ski and stands the chance of a chafe on the
'tendon Achillis.' Owing to the last consideration
many had decided to go with toe strap alone as we
did in the Discovery . This brought into my mind
the possibility of using the iron cross bar and
snap heel strap of the Huitfeldt on a suitable overshoe.
Evans, P.O., has arisen well to the occasion as
a boot maker, and has just completed a pair of shoes
which are very nearly what we require.
The soles have two thicknesses of seal skin cured
with alum, stiffened at the foot with a layer of
venesta board, and raised at the heel on a block
of wood. The upper part is large enough to contain
a finnesko and is secured by a simple strap. A shoe
weighs 13 oz. against 2 lbs. for a single ski boot--so
that shoe and finnesko together are less weight
than a boot.
If we can perfect this arrangement it should be
of the greatest use to us.
Wright has been swinging the pendulum in his cavern.
Prodigious trouble has been taken to keep the time,
and this object has been immensely helped by the
telephone communication between the cavern, the
transit instrument, and the interior of the hut.
The timekeeper is perfectly placed. Wright tells
me that his ice platform proves to be five times
as solid as the fixed piece of masonry used at Potsdam.
The only difficulty is the low temperature, which
freezes his breath on the glass window of the protecting
dome. I feel sure these gravity results are going
to be very good.
The temperature has been hanging in the minus thirties
all day with calm and clear sky, but this evening
a wind has sprung up without rise of temperature.
It is now -32°, with a wind of 25 m.p.h
a pretty stiff condition to
face outside!
Sunday, July 2
There was wind last night,
but this morning found a settled calm again, with
temperature as usual about -35°. The moon is
rising again; it came over the shoulder of Erebus
about 5 P.M., in second quarter. It will cross the
meridian at night, worse luck, but such days as
this will be pleasant even with a low moon; one
is very glad to think the Crozier Party are having
such a peaceful time.
Sunday routine and nothing much to record.
Monday, July 3
Another quiet day, the sky
more suspicious in appearance. Thin stratus cloud
forming and dissipating overhead, curling stratus
clouds over Erebus. Wind at Cape Crozier seemed
a possibility.
Our people have been far out on the floe. It is
cheerful to see the twinkling light of some worker
at a water hole or hear the ring of distant voices
or swish of ski.
Tuesday, July 4
A day of blizzard and adventure.
The wind arose last night, and although the temperature
advanced a few degrees it remained at a very low
point considering the strength of the wind.
This forenoon it was blowing 40 to 45 m.p.h. with
a temperature -25° to -28°. No weather to
be in the open.
In the afternoon the wind modified slightly. Taylor
and Atkinson went up to the Ramp thermometer screen.
After this, entirely without my knowledge, two adventurous
spirits, Atkinson and Gran, decided to start off
over the floe, making respectively for the north
and south Bay thermometers, 'Archibald' and 'Clarence.'
This was at 5.30; Gran was back by dinner at 6.45,
and it was only later that I learned that he had
gone no more than 200 or 300 yards from the land
and that it had taken him nearly an hour to get
back again.
Atkinson's continued absence passed unnoticed until
dinner was nearly over at 7.15, although I had heard
that the wind had dropped at the beginning of dinner
and that it remained very thick all round, with
light snow falling.
Although I felt somewhat annoyed, I had no serious
anxiety at this time, and as several members came
out of the hut I despatched them short distances
to shout and show lanterns and arranged to have
a paraffin flare lit on Wind Vane Hill.
Evans, P.O., Crean and Keohane, being anxious for
a walk, were sent to the north with a lantern. Whilst
this desultory search proceeded the wind sprang
up again from the south, but with no great force,
and meanwhile the sky showed signs of clearing and
the moon appeared dimly through the drifting clouds.
With such a guide we momentarily looked for the
return of our wanderer, and with his continued absence
our anxiety grew. At 9.30 Evans, P.O., and his party
returned without news of him, and at last there
was no denying the possibility of a serious accident.
Between 9.30 and 10 proper search parties were organised,
and I give the details to show the thoroughness
which I thought necessary to meet the gravity of
the situation. I had by this time learnt that Atkinson
had left with comparatively light clothing and,
still worse, with leather ski boots on his feet;
fortunately he had wind clothing.
P.O. Evans was away first with Crean, Keohane, and
Demetri, a light sledge, a sleeping-bag, and a flask
of brandy. His orders were to search the edge of
the land and glacier through the sweep of the Bay
to the Barne Glacier and to Cape Barne beyond, then
to turn east along an open crack and follow it to
Inaccessible Island. Evans (Lieut.), with Nelson,
Forde, and Hooper, left shortly after, similarly
equipped, to follow the shore of the South Bay in
similar fashion, then turn out to the Razor Back
and search there. Next Wright, Gran, and Lashly
set out for the bergs to look thoroughly about them
and from thence pass round and examine Inaccessible
Island. After these parties got away, Meares and
Debenham started with a lantern to search to and
fro over the surface of our promontory. Simpson
and Oates went out in a direct line over the Northern
floe to the 'Archibald' thermometer, whilst Ponting
and Taylor re-examined the tide crack towards the
Barne Glacier. Meanwhile Day went to and fro Wind
Vane Hill to light at intervals upon its crest bundles
of tow well soaked in petrol. At length Clissold
and I were left alone in the hut, and as the hours
went by I grew ever more alarmed. It was impossible
for me to conceive how an able man could have failed
to return to the hut before this or by any means
found shelter in such clothing in such weather.
Atkinson had started for a point a little more than
a mile away; at 10.30 he had been five hours away;
what conclusion could be drawn? And yet I felt it
most difficult to imagine an accident on open floe
with no worse pitfall than a shallow crack or steep-sided
snow drift. At least I could feel that every spot
which was likely to be the scene of such an accident
would be searched. Thus 11 o'clock came without
change, then 11.30 with its 6 hours of absence.
But at 11.45 I heard voices from the Cape, and presently
the adventure ended to my extreme relief when Meares
and Debenham led our wanderer home. He was badly
frostbitten in the hand and less seriously on the
face, and though a good deal confused, as men always
are on such occasions, he was otherwise well.
His tale is confused, but as far as one can gather
he did not go more than a quarter of a mile in the
direction of the thermometer screen before he decided
to turn back. He then tried to walk with the wind
a little on one side on the bearing he had originally
observed, and after some time stumbled on an old
fish trap hole, which he knew to be 200 yards from
the Cape. He made this 200 yards in the direction
he supposed correct, and found nothing. In such
a situation had he turned east he must have hit
the land somewhere close to the hut and so found
his way to it. The fact that he did not, but attempted
to wander straight on, is clear evidence of the
mental condition caused by that situation. There
can be no doubt that in a blizzard a man has not
only to safeguard the circulation in his limbs,
but must struggle with a sluggishness of brain and
an absence of reasoning power which is far more
likely to undo him.
In fact Atkinson has really no very clear idea of
what happened to him after he missed the Cape. He
seems to have wandered aimlessly up wind till he
hit an island; he walked all round this; says he
couldn't see a yard at this time; fell often into
the tide crack; finally stopped under the lee of
some rocks; here got his hand frostbitten owing
to difficulty of getting frozen mit on again, finally
got it on; started to dig a hole to wait in. Saw
something of the moon and left the island; lost
the moon and wanted to go back; could find nothing;
finally stumbled on another island, perhaps the
same one; waited again, again saw the moon, now
clearing; shaped some sort of course by it--then
saw flare on Cape and came on rapidly--says he shouted
to someone on Cape quite close to him, greatly surprised
not to get an answer. It is a rambling tale to-night
and a half thawed brain. It is impossible to listen
to such a tale without appreciating that it has
been a close escape or that there would have been
no escape had the blizzard continued. The thought
that it would return after a short lull was amongst
the worst with me during the hours of waiting.
2 A.M
The search parties have returned
and all is well again, but we must have no more
of these very unnecessary escapades. Yet it is impossible
not to realise that this bit of experience has done
more than all the talking I could have ever accomplished
to bring home to our people the dangers of a blizzard.
Wednesday, July 5
Atkinson has a bad hand to-day,
immense blisters on every finger giving them the
appearance of sausages. To-night Ponting has photographed
the hand.
As I expected, some amendment of Atkinson's tale
as written last night is necessary, partly due to
some lack of coherency in the tale as first told
and partly a reconsideration of the circumstances
by Atkinson himself.
It appears he first hit Inaccessible Island, and
got his hand frostbitten before he reached it. It
was only on arrival in its lee that he discovered
the frostbite. He must have waited there some time,
then groped his way to the western end thinking
he was near the Ramp. Then wandering away in a swirl
of drift to clear some irregularities at the ice
foot, he completely lost the island when he could
only have been a few yards from it.
He seems in this predicament to have clung to the
old idea of walking up wind, and it must be considered
wholly providential that on this course he next
struck Tent Island. It was round this island that
he walked, finally digging himself a shelter on
its lee side under the impression that it was Inaccessible
Island. When the moon appeared he seems to have
judged its bearing well, and as he travelled homeward
he was much surprised to see the real Inaccessible
Island appear on his left. The distance of Tent
Island, 4 to 5 miles, partly accounts for the time
he took in returning. Everything goes to confirm
the fact that he had a very close shave of being
lost altogether.
For some time past some of the ponies have had great
irritation of the skin. I felt sure it was due to
some parasite, though the Soldier thought the food
responsible and changed it.
To-day a tiny body louse was revealed under Atkinson's
microscope after capture from 'Snatcher's' coat.
A dilute solution of carbolic is expected to rid
the poor beasts of their pests, but meanwhile one
or two of them have rubbed off patches of hair which
they can ill afford to spare in this climate. I
hope we shall get over the trouble quickly.
The day has been gloriously fine again, with bright
moonlight all the afternoon. It was a wondrous sight
to see Erebus emerge from soft filmy clouds of mist
as though some thin veiling had been withdrawn with
infinite delicacy to reveal the pure outline of
this moonlit mountain.
Thursday, July 6, continued
The
temperature has taken a plunge--to -46°
last night. It is now -45°, with a ten-mile
breeze from the south. Frostbiting weather!
Went for a short run on foot this forenoon and a
longer one on ski this afternoon. The surface is
bad after the recent snowfall. A new pair of sealskin
overshoes for ski made by Evans seem to be a complete
success. He has modified the shape of the toe to
fit the ski irons better. I am very pleased with
this arrangement.
I find it exceedingly difficult to settle down to
solid work just at present and keep putting off
the tasks which I have set myself.
The sun has not yet risen a degree of the eleven
degrees below our horizon which it was at noon on
Midwinter Day, and yet to-day there was a distinct
red in the northern sky. Perhaps such sunset colours
have something to do with this cold snap.
Friday, July 7
The temperature fell to -49°
last night--our record so far, and likely to remain
so, one would think. This morning it was fine and
calm, temperature -45°. But this afternoon a
30-mile wind sprang up from the S.E., and the temperature
only gradually rose to -30°, never passing above
that point. I thought it a little too strenuous
and so was robbed of my walk.
The dogs' coats are getting pretty thick, and they
seem to take matters pretty comfortably. The ponies
are better, I think, but I shall be glad when we
are sure of having rid them of their pest.
I was the victim of a very curious illusion to-day.
On our small heating stove stands a cylindrical
ice melter which keeps up the supply of water necessary
for the dark room and other scientific instruments.
This iron container naturally becomes warm if it
is not fed with ice, and it is generally hung around
with socks and mits which require drying. I put
my hand on the cylindrical vessel this afternoon
and withdrew it sharply with the sensation of heat.
To verify the impression I repeated the action two
or three times, when it became so strong that I
loudly warned the owners of the socks, &c.,
of the peril of burning to which they were exposed.
Upon this Meares said, 'But they filled the melter
with ice a few minutes ago,' and then, coming over
to feel the surface himself, added, 'Why, it's cold,
sir.' And indeed so it was. The slightly damp chilled
surface of the iron had conveyed to me the impression
of excessive heat.
There is nothing intrinsically new in this observation;
it has often been noticed that metal surfaces at
low temperatures give a sensation of burning to
the bare touch, but none the less it is an interesting
variant of the common fact.
Apropos. Atkinson is suffering a good deal from
his hand: the frostbite was deeper than I thought;
fortunately he can now feel all his fingers, though
it was twenty-four hours before sensation returned
to one of them.
Monday, July 10
We have had the worst gale
I have ever known in these regions and have not
yet done with it.
The wind started at about mid-day on Friday, and
increasing in violence reached an average of 60
miles for one hour on Saturday, the gusts at this
time exceeding 70 m.p.h. This force of wind, although
exceptional, has not been without parallel earlier
in the year, but the extraordinary feature of this
gale was the long continuance of a very cold temperature.
On Friday night the thermometer registered -39°.
Throughout Saturday and the greater part of Sunday
it did not rise above -35°. Late yesterday it
was in the minus twenties, and to-day at length
it has risen to zero.
Needless to say no one has been far from the hut.
It was my turn for duty on Saturday night, and on
the occasions when I had to step out of doors I
was struck with the impossibility of enduring such
conditions for any length of time. One seemed to
be robbed of breath as they burst on one--the fine
snow beat in behind the wind guard, and ten paces
against the wind were sufficient to reduce one's
face to the verge of frostbite. To clear the anemometer
vane it is necessary to go to the other end of the
hut and climb a ladder. Twice whilst engaged in
this task I had literally to lean against the wind
with head bent and face averted and so stagger crab-like
on my course. In those two days of really terrible
weather our thoughts often turned to absentees at
Cape Crozier with the devout hope that they may
be safely housed.
They are certain to have been caught by this gale,
but I trust before it reached them they had managed
to get up some sort of shelter. Sometimes I have
imagined them getting much more wind than we do,
yet at others it seems difficult to believe that
the Emperor penguins have chosen an excessively
wind-swept area for their rookery.
To-day with the temperature at zero one can walk
about outside without inconvenience in spite of
a 50-mile wind. Although I am loath to believe it
there must be some measure of acclimatisation, for
it is certain we should have felt to-day's wind
severely when we first arrived in McMurdo Sound.
Tuesday, July 11
Never was such persistent bad
weather. To-day the temperature is up to 5°
to 7°, the wind 40 to 50 m.p.h., the air thick
with snow, and the moon a vague blue. This is the
fourth day of gale; if one reflects on the quantity
of transported air (nearly 4,000 miles) one gets
a conception of the transference which such a gale
effects and must conclude that potentially warm
upper currents are pouring into our polar area from
more temperate sources.
The dogs are very gay and happy in the comparative
warmth. I have been going to and fro on the home
beach and about the rocky knolls in its environment--in
spite of the wind it was very warm. I dug myself
a hole in a drift in the shelter of a large boulder
and lay down in it, and covered my legs with loose
snow. It was so warm that I could have slept very
comfortably.
I have been amused and pleased lately in observing
the manners and customs of the persons in charge
of our stores; quite a number of secret caches exist
in which articles of value are hidden from public
knowledge so that they may escape use until a real
necessity arises. The policy of every storekeeper
is to have something up his sleeve for a rainy day.
For instance, Evans (P.O.), after thoroughly examining
the purpose of some individual who is pleading for
a piece of canvas, will admit that he may have a
small piece somewhere which could be used for it,
when, as a matter of fact, he possesses quite a
number of rolls of that material.
Tools, metal material, leather, straps and dozens
of items are administered with the same spirit of
jealous guardianship by Day, Lashly, Oates and Meares,
while our main storekeeper Bowers even affects to
bemoan imaginary shortages. Such parsimony is the
best guarantee that we are prepared to face any
serious call.
Wednesday, July 12
All night and to-day wild gusts
of wind shaking the hut; long, ragged, twisted wind-cloud
in the middle heights. A watery moon shining through
a filmy cirrostratus--the outlook wonderfully desolate
with its ghostly illumination and patchy clouds
of flying snow drift. It would be hardly possible
for a tearing, raging wind to make itself more visible.
At Wind Vane Hill the anemometer has registered
68 miles between 9 and 10 A.M
a record. The gusts at the
hut frequently exceed 70 m.p.h
luckily the temperature is
up to 5°, so that there is no hardship for the
workers outside.
Thursday, July 13
The wind continued to blow
throughout the night, with squalls of even greater
violence than before; a new record was created by
a gust of 77 m.p.h. shown by the anemometer.
The snow is so hard blown that only the fiercest
gusts raise the drifting particles--it is interesting
to note the balance of nature whereby one evil is
eliminated by the excess of another.
For an hour after lunch yesterday the gale showed
signs of moderation and the ponies had a short walk
over the floe. Out for exercise at this time I was
obliged to lean against the wind, my light overall
clothes flapping wildly and almost dragged from
me; later when the wind rose again it was quite
an effort to stagger back to the hut against it.
This morning the gale still rages, but the sky is
much clearer; the only definite clouds are those
which hang to the southward of Erebus summit, but
the moon, though bright, still exhibits a watery
appearance, showing that there is still a thin stratus
above us.
The work goes on very steadily--the men are making
crampons and ski boots of the new style. Evans is
constructing plans of the Dry Valley and Koettlitz
Glacier with the help of the Western Party. The
physicists are busy always, Meares is making dog
harness, Oates ridding the ponies of their parasites,
and Ponting printing from his negatives.
Science cannot be served by 'dilettante' methods,
but demands a mind spurred by ambition or the satisfaction
of ideals.
Our most popular game for evening recreation is
chess; so many players have developed that our two
sets of chessmen are inadequate.
Friday, July 14
We have had a horrible fright
and are not yet out of the wood.
At noon yesterday one of the best ponies, 'Bones,'
suddenly went off his feed--soon after it was evident
that he was distressed and there could be no doubt
that he was suffering from colic. Oates called my
attention to it, but we were neither much alarmed,
remembering the speedy recovery of 'Jimmy Pigg'
under similar circumstances. Later the pony was
sent out for exercise with Crean. I passed him twice
and seemed to gather that things were well, but
Crean afterwards told me that he had had considerable
trouble. Every few minutes the poor beast had been
seized with a spasm of pain, had first dashed forward
as though to escape it and then endeavoured to lie
down. Crean had had much difficulty in keeping him
in, and on his legs, for he is a powerful beast.
When he returned to the stable he was evidently
worse, and Oates and Anton patiently dragged a sack
to and fro under his stomach. Every now and again
he attempted to lie down, and Oates eventually thought
it wiser to let him do so. Once down, his head gradually
drooped until he lay at length, every now and again
twitching very horribly with the pain and from time
to time raising his head and even scrambling to
his legs when it grew intense. I don't think I ever
realised before how pathetic a horse could be under
such conditions; no sound escapes him, his misery
can only be indicated by those distressing spasms
and by dumb movements of the head turned with a
patient expression always suggestive of appeal.
Although alarmed by this time, remembering the care
with which the animals are being fed I could not
picture anything but a passing indisposition. But
as hour after hour passed without improvement, it
was impossible not to realise that the poor beast
was dangerously ill. Oates administered an opium
pill and later on a second, sacks were heated in
the oven and placed on the poor beast; beyond this
nothing could be done except to watch--Oates and
Crean never left the patient. As the evening wore
on I visited the stable again and again, but only
to hear the same tale--no improvement. Towards midnight
I felt very downcast. It is so very certain that
we cannot afford to lose a single pony--the margin
of safety has already been far overstepped, we are
reduced to face the circumstance that we must keep
all the animals alive or greatly risk failure.
So far everything has gone so well with them that
my fears of a loss had been lulled in a growing
hope that all would be well--therefore at midnight,
when poor 'Bones' had continued in pain for twelve
hours and showed little sign of improvement, I felt
my fleeting sense of security rudely shattered.
It was shortly after midnight when I was told that
the animal seemed a little easier. At 2.30 I was
again in the stable and found the improvement had
been maintained; the horse still lay on its side
with outstretched head, but the spasms had ceased,
its eye looked less distressed, and its ears pricked
to occasional noises. As I stood looking it suddenly
raised its head and rose without effort to its legs;
then in a moment, as though some bad dream had passed,
it began to nose at some hay and at its neighbour.
Within three minutes it had drunk a bucket of water
and had started to feed.
I went to bed at 3 with much relief. At noon to-day
the immediate cause of the trouble and an indication
that there is still risk were disclosed in a small
ball of semi-fermented hay covered with mucus and
containing tape worms; so far not very serious,
but unfortunately attached to this mass was a strip
of the lining of the intestine.
Atkinson, from a humanly comparative point of view,
does not think this is serious if great care is
taken with the food for a week or so, and so one
can hope for the best.
Meanwhile we have had much discussion as to the
first cause of the difficulty. The circumstances
possibly contributing are as follows: fermentation
of the hay, insufficiency of water, overheated stable,
a chill from exercise after the gale--I think all
these may have had a bearing on the case. It can
scarcely be coincidence that the two ponies which
have suffered so far are those which are nearest
the stove end of the stable. In future the stove
will be used more sparingly, a large ventilating
hole is to be made near it and an allowance of water
is to be added to the snow hitherto given to the
animals. In the food line we can only exercise such
precautions as are possible, but one way or another
we ought to be able to prevent any more danger of
this description.
Saturday, July 15
There was strong wind with
snow this morning and the wind remained keen and
cold in the afternoon, but to-night it has fallen
calm with a promising clear sky outlook. Have been
up the Ramp, clambering about in my sealskin overshoes,
which seem extraordinarily satisfactory.
Oates thinks a good few of the ponies have got worms
and we are considering means of ridding them. 'Bones'
seems to be getting on well, though not yet quite
so buckish as he was before his trouble. A good
big ventilator has been fitted in the stable. It
is not easy to get over the alarm of Thursday night--the
situation is altogether too critical.
Sunday, July 16
Another slight alarm this morning.
The pony 'China' went off his feed at breakfast
time and lay down twice. He was up and well again
in half an hour; but what on earth is it that is
disturbing these poor beasts?
Usual Sunday routine. Quiet day except for a good
deal of wind off and on. The Crozier Party must
be having a wretched time.
Monday, July 17
The weather still very unsettled--the
wind comes up with a rush to fade in an hour or
two. Clouds chase over the sky in similar fashion:
the moon has dipped during daylight hours, and so
one way and another there is little to attract one
out of doors.
Yet we are only nine days off the 'light value'
of the day when we left off football--I hope we
shall be able to recommence the game in that time.
I am glad that the light is coming for more than
one reason. The gale and consequent inaction not
only affected the ponies, Ponting is not very fit
as a consequence--his nervous temperament is of
the quality to take this wintering experience badly--Atkinson
has some difficulty in persuading him to take exercise--he
managed only by dragging him out to his own work,
digging holes in the ice. Taylor is another backslider
in the exercise line and is not looking well. If
we can get these people to run about at football
all will be well. Anyway the return of the light
should cure all ailments physical and mental.
Tuesday, July 18
A very brilliant red sky at
noon to-day and enough light to see one's way about.
This fleeting hour of light is very pleasant, but
of course dependent on a clear sky, very rare. Went
round the outer berg in the afternoon; it was all
I could do to keep up with 'Snatcher' on the homeward
round--speaking well for his walking powers.
Wednesday, July 19
Again calm and pleasant. The
temperature is gradually falling down to -35°.
Went out to the old working crack [26] north of
Inaccessible Island--Nelson and Evans had had great
difficulty in rescuing their sounding sledge, which
had been left near here before the gale. The course
of events is not very clear, but it looks as though
the gale pressed up the crack, raising broken pieces
of the thin ice formed after recent opening movements.
These raised pieces had become nuclei of heavy snow
drifts, which in turn weighing down the floe had
allowed water to flow in over the sledge level.
It is surprising to find such a big disturbance
from what appears to be a simple cause. This crack
is now joined, and the contraction is taking on
a new one which has opened much nearer to us and
seems to run to C. Barne.
We have noticed a very curious appearance of heavenly
bodies when setting in a north-westerly direction.
About the time of midwinter the moon observed in
this position appeared in a much distorted shape
of blood red colour. It might have been a red flare
or distant bonfire, but could not have been guessed
for the moon. Yesterday the planet Venus appeared
under similar circumstances as a ship's side-light
or Japanese lantern. In both cases there was a flickering
in the light and a change of colour from deep orange
yellow to blood red, but the latter was dominant.
Thursday, July 20, Friday
21, Saturday 22
There is very little to record--the
horses are going on well, all are in good form,
at least for the moment. They drink a good deal
of water in the morning.
Saturday, July 22, continued
This and the better ventilation
of the stable make for improvement we think--perhaps
the increase of salt allowance is also beneficial.
To-day we have another raging blizzard--the wind
running up to 72 m.p.h. in gusts--one way and another
the Crozier Party must have had a pretty poor time.
[27] I am thankful to remember that the light will
be coming on apace now.
Monday, July 24
The blizzard continued throughout
yesterday (Sunday), in the evening reaching a record
force of 82 m.p.h. The vane of our anemometer is
somewhat sheltered: Simpson finds the hill readings
20 per cent. higher. Hence in such gusts as this
the free wind must reach nearly 100 m.p.h
a hurricane force. To-day Nelson
found that his sounding sledge had been turned over.
We passed a quiet Sunday with the usual Service
to break the week-day routine. During my night watch
last night I could observe the rapid falling of
the wind, which on dying away left a still atmosphere
almost oppressively warm at 7°. The temperature
has remained comparatively high to-day. I went to
see the crack at which soundings were taken a week
ago--then it was several feet open with thin ice
between--now it is pressed up into a sharp ridge
3 to 4 feet high: the edge pressed up shows an 18
inch thickness--this is of course an effect of the
warm weather.
Tuesday, July 25, Wednesday,
July 26
There is really very little
to be recorded in these days, life proceeds very
calmly if somewhat monotonously. Everyone seems
fit, there is no sign of depression. To all outward
appearance the ponies are in better form than they
have ever been; the same may be said of the dogs
with one or two exceptions.
The light comes on apace. To-day (Wednesday) it
was very beautiful at noon: the air was very clear
and the detail of the Western Mountains was revealed
in infinitely delicate contrasts of light.
Thursday, July 27, Friday,
July 28
Calmer days: the sky rosier:
the light visibly advancing. We have never suffered
from low spirits, so that the presence of day raises
us above a normal cheerfulness to the realm of high
spirits.
The light, merry humour of our company has never
been eclipsed, the good-natured, kindly chaff has
never ceased since those early days of enthusiasm
which inspired them--they have survived the winter
days of stress and already renew themselves with
the coming of spring. If pessimistic moments had
foreseen the growth of rifts in the bond forged
by these amenities, they stand prophetically falsified;
there is no longer room for doubt that we shall
come to our work with a unity of purpose and a disposition
for mutual support which have never been equalled
in these paths of activity. Such a spirit should
tide us [over] all minor difficulties. It is a good
omen.
Saturday, July 29, Sunday,
July 30
Two quiet days, temperature
low in the minus thirties--an occasional rush of
wind lasting for but a few minutes.
One of our best sledge dogs, 'Julick,' has disappeared.
I'm afraid he's been set on by the others at some
distant spot and we shall see nothing more but his
stiffened carcass when the light returns. Meares
thinks the others would not have attacked him and
imagines he has fallen into the water in some seal
hole or crack. In either case I'm afraid we must
be resigned to another loss. It's an awful nuisance.
Gran went to C. Royds to-day. I asked him to report
on the open water, and so he went on past the Cape.
As far as I can gather he got half-way to C. Bird
before he came to thin ice; for at least 5 or 6
miles past C. Royds the ice is old and covered with
wind-swept snow. This is very unexpected. In the
Discovery first year the ice continually broke back
to the Glacier Tongue: in the second year it must
have gone out to C. Royds very early in the spring
if it did not go out in the winter, and in the Nimrod
year it was rarely fast beyond C. Royds. It is very
strange, especially as this has been the windiest
year recorded so far. Simpson says the average has
exceeded 20 m.p.h. since the instruments were set
up, and this figure has for comparison 9 and 12
m.p.h. for the two Discovery years. There remains
a possibility that we have chosen an especially
wind-swept spot for our station. Yet I can scarcely
believe that there is generally more wind here than
at Hut Point.
I was out for two hours this morning--it was amazingly
pleasant to be able to see the inequalities of one's
path, and the familiar landmarks bathed in violet
light. An hour after noon the northern sky was intensely
red.
Monday, July 31
It was overcast to-day and
the light not quite so good, but this is the last
day of another month, and August means the sun.
One begins to wonder what the Crozier Party is doing.
It has been away five weeks.
The ponies are getting buckish. Chinaman squeals
and kicks in the stable, Nobby kicks without squealing,
but with even more purpose--last night he knocked
down a part of his stall. The noise of these animals
is rather trying at night--one imagines all sorts
of dreadful things happening, but when the watchman
visits the stables its occupants blink at him with
a sleepy air as though the disturbance could not
possibly have been there!
There was a glorious northern sky to-day; the horizon
was clear and the flood of red light illuminated
the under side of the broken stratus cloud above,
producing very beautiful bands of violet light.
Simpson predicts a blizzard within twenty-four hours--we
are interested to watch results.
Tuesday, August 1
The month has opened with a
very beautiful day. This morning I took a circuitous
walk over our land 'estate,' winding to and fro
in gulleys filled with smooth ice patches or loose
sandy soil, with a twofold object. I thought I might
find the remains of poor Julick--in this I was unsuccessful;
but I wished further to test our new crampons, and
with these I am immensely pleased--they possess
every virtue in a footwear designed for marching
over smooth ice--lightness, warmth, comfort, and
ease in the putting on and off.
The light was especially good to-day; the sun was
directly reflected by a single twisted iridescent
cloud in the north, a brilliant and most beautiful
object. The air was still, and it was very pleasant
to hear the crisp sounds of our workers abroad.
The tones of voices, the swish of ski or the chipping
of an ice pick carry two or three miles on such
days--more than once to-day we could hear the notes
of some blithe singer--happily signalling the coming
of the spring and the sun.
This afternoon as I sit in the hut I find it worthy
of record that two telephones are in use: the one
keeping time for Wright who works at the transit
instrument, and the other bringing messages from
Nelson at his ice hole three-quarters of a mile
away. This last connection is made with a bare aluminium
wire and earth return, and shows that we should
have little difficulty in completing our circuit
to Hut Point as is contemplated.
Account of the Winter
Journey
Wednesday, August 2
The Crozier Party returned
last night after enduring for five weeks the hardest
conditions on record. They looked more weather-worn
than anyone I have yet seen. Their faces were scarred
and wrinkled, their eyes dull, their hands whitened
and creased with the constant exposure to damp and
cold, yet the scars of frostbite were very few and
this evil had never seriously assailed them. The
main part of their afflictions arose, and very obviously
arose, from sheer lack of sleep, and to-day after
a night's rest our travellers are very different
in appearance and mental capacity.
The story of a very wonderful performance must be
told by the actors. It is for me now to give but
an outline of the journey and to note more particularly
the effects of the strain which they have imposed
on themselves and the lessons which their experiences
teach for our future guidance.
Wilson is very thin, but this morning very much
his keen, wiry self--Bowers is quite himself to-day.
Cherry-Garrard is slightly puffy in the face and
still looks worn. It is evident that he has suffered
most severely--but Wilson tells me that his spirit
never wavered for a moment. Bowers has come through
best, all things considered, and I believe he is
the hardest traveller that ever undertook a Polar
journey, as well as one of the most undaunted; more
by hint than direct statement I gather his value
to the party, his untiring energy and the astonishing
physique which enables him to continue to work under
conditions which are absolutely paralysing to others.
Never was such a sturdy, active, undefeatable little
man.
So far as one can gather, the story of this journey
in brief is much as follows: The party reached the
Barrier two days after leaving C. Evans, still pulling
their full load of 250 lbs. per man; the snow surface
then changed completely and grew worse and worse
as they advanced. For one day they struggled on
as before, covering 4 miles, but from this onward
they were forced to relay, and found the half load
heavier than the whole one had been on the sea ice.
Meanwhile the temperature had been falling, and
now for more than a week the thermometer fell below
-60°. On one night the minimum showed -71°,
and on the next -77°, 109° of frost. Although
in this truly fearful cold the air was comparatively
still, every now and again little puffs of wind
came eddying across the snow plain with blighting
effect. No civilised being has ever encountered
such conditions before with only a tent of thin
canvas to rely on for shelter. We have been looking
up the records to-day and find that Amundsen on
a journey to the N. magnetic pole in March encountered
temperatures similar in degree and recorded a minimum
of 79°; but he was with Esquimaux who built
him an igloo shelter nightly; he had a good measure
of daylight; the temperatures given are probably
'unscreened' from radiation, and finally, he turned
homeward and regained his ship after five days'
absence. Our party went outward and remained absent
for five weeks .
It took the best part of a fortnight to cross the
coldest region, and then rounding C. Mackay they
entered the wind-swept area. Blizzard followed blizzard,
the sky was constantly overcast and they staggered
on in a light which was little better than complete
darkness; sometimes they found themselves high on
the slopes of Terror on the left of their track,
and sometimes diving into the pressure ridges on
the right amidst crevasses and confused ice disturbance.
Reaching the foothills near C. Crozier, they ascended
800 feet, then packed their belongings over a moraine
ridge and started to build a hut. It took three
days to build the stone walls and complete the roof
with the canvas brought for the purpose. Then at
last they could attend to the object of the journey.
The scant twilight at midday was so short that they
must start in the dark and be prepared for the risk
of missing their way in returning without light.
On the first day in which they set forth under these
conditions it took them two hours to reach the pressure
ridges, and to clamber over them roped together
occupied nearly the same time; finally they reached
a place above the rookery where they could hear
the birds squawking, but from which they were quite
unable to find a way down. The poor light was failing
and they returned to camp. Starting again on the
following day they wound their way through frightful
ice disturbances under the high basalt cliffs; in
places the rock overhung, and at one spot they had
to creep through a small channel hollowed in the
ice. At last they reached the sea ice, but now the
light was so far spent they were obliged to rush
everything. Instead of the 2000 or 3000 nesting
birds which had been seen here in Discovery days,
they could now only count about 100; they hastily
killed and skinned three to get blubber for their
stove, and collecting six eggs, three of which alone
survived, they dashed for camp.
It is possible the birds are deserting this rookery,
but it is also possible that this early date found
only a small minority of the birds which will be
collected at a later one. The eggs, which have not
yet been examined, should throw light on this point.
Wilson observed yet another proof of the strength
of the nursing instinct in these birds. In searching
for eggs both he and Bowers picked up rounded pieces
of ice which these ridiculous creatures had been
cherishing with fond hope.
The light had failed entirely by the time the party
were clear of the pressure ridges on their return,
and it was only by good luck they regained their
camp.
That night a blizzard commenced, increasing in fury
from moment to moment. They now found that the place
chosen for the hut for shelter was worse than useless.
They had far better have built in the open, for
the fierce wind, instead of striking them directly,
was deflected on to them in furious whirling gusts.
Heavy blocks of snow and rock placed on the roof
were whirled away and the canvas ballooned up, tearing
and straining at its securings--its disappearance
could only be a question of time. They had erected
their tent with some valuables inside close to the
hut; it had been well spread and more than amply
secured with snow and boulders, but one terrific
gust tore it up and whirled it away. Inside the
hut they waited for the roof to vanish, wondering
what they could do if it went, and vainly endeavouring
to make it secure. After fourteen hours it went,
as they were trying to pin down one corner. The
smother of snow was on them, and they could only
dive for their sleeping-bags with a gasp. Bowers
put his head out once and said, 'We're all right,'
in as near his ordinary tones as he could compass.
The others replied 'Yes, we're all right,' and all
were silent for a night and half a day whilst the
wind howled on; the snow entered every chink and
crevasse of the sleeping-bags, and the occupants
shivered and wondered how it would all end.
This gale was the same (July 23) in which we registered
our maximum wind force, and it seems probable that
it fell on C. Crozier even more violently than on
us.
The wind fell at noon the following day; the forlorn
travellers crept from their icy nests, made shift
to spread their floor-cloth overhead, and lit their
primus. They tasted their first food for forty-eight
hours and began to plan a means to build a shelter
on the homeward route. They decided that they must
dig a large pit nightly and cover it as best they
could with their floorcloth. But now fortune befriended
them; a search to the north revealed the tent lying
amongst boulders a quarter of a mile away, and,
strange to relate, practically uninjured, a fine
testimonial for the material used in its construction.
On the following day they started homeward, and
immediately another blizzard fell on them, holding
them prisoners for two days. By this time the miserable
condition of their effects was beyond description.
The sleeping-bags were far too stiff to be rolled
up, in fact they were so hard frozen that attempts
to bend them actually split the skins; the eiderdown
bags inside Wilson's and C.-G.'s reindeer covers
served but to fitfully stop the gaps made by such
rents. All socks, finnesko, and mits had long been
coated with ice; placed in breast pockets or inside
vests at night they did not even show signs of thawing,
much less of drying. It sometimes took C.-G. three-quarters
of an hour to get into his sleeping-bag, so flat
did it freeze and so difficult was it to open. It
is scarcely possible to realise the horrible discomforts
of the forlorn travellers as they plodded back across
the Barrier with the temperature again constantly
below -60°. In this fashion they reached Hut
Point and on the following night our home quarters.
Wilson is disappointed at seeing so little of the
penguins, but to me and to everyone who has remained
here the result of this effort is the appeal it
makes to our imagination as one of the most gallant
stories in Polar History. That men should wander
forth in the depth of a Polar night to face the
most dismal cold and the fiercest gales in darkness
is something new; that they should have persisted
in this effort in spite of every adversity for five
full weeks is heroic. It makes a tale for our generation
which I hope may not be lost in the telling.
Moreover the material results are by no means despicable.
We shall know now when that extraordinary bird the
Emperor penguin lays its eggs, and under what conditions;
but even if our information remains meagre concerning
its embryology, our party has shown the nature of
the conditions which exist on the Great Barrier
in winter. Hitherto we have only imagined their
severity; now we have proof, and a positive light
is thrown on the local climatology of our Strait.
Experience of Sledging Rations and Equipment
For our future sledge work several points have been
most satisfactorily settled. The party went on a
very simple food ration in different and extreme
proportions; they took pemmican, butter, biscuit
and tea only. After a short experience they found
that Wilson, who had arranged for the greatest quantity
of fat, had too much of it, and C.-G., who had gone
for biscuit, had more than he could eat. A middle
course was struck which gave a general proportion
agreeable to all, and at the same time suited the
total quantities of the various articles carried.
In this way we have arrived at a simple and suitable
ration for the inland plateau. The only change suggested
is the addition of cocoa for the evening meal. The
party contented themselves with hot water, deeming
that tea might rob them of their slender chance
of sleep.
On sleeping-bags little new can be said--the eiderdown
bag may be a useful addition for a short time on
a spring journey, but they soon get iced up.
Bowers did not use an eiderdown bag throughout,
and in some miraculous manner he managed to turn
his reindeer bag two or three times during the journey.
The following are the weights of sleeping-bags before
and after:
Starting Weight. Final Weight. Wilson, reindeer
and eiderdown 17 40 Bowers, reindeer only 17 33
C.-Garrard, reindeer and eiderdown 18 45
This gives some idea of the ice collected.
The double tent has been reported an immense success.
It weighed about 35 lbs. at starting and 60 lbs.
on return: the ice mainly collected on the inner
tent.
The crampons are much praised, except by Bowers,
who has an eccentric attachment to our older form.
We have discovered a hundred details of clothes,
mits, and footwear: there seems no solution to the
difficulties which attach to these articles in extreme
cold; all Wilson can say, speaking broadly, is 'the
gear is excellent, excellent.' One continues to
wonder as to the possibilities of fur clothing as
made by the Esquimaux, with a sneaking feeling that
it may outclass our more civilised garb. For us
this can only be a matter of speculation, as it
would have been quite impossible to have obtained
such articles. With the exception of this radically
different alternative, I feel sure we are as near
perfection as experience can direct.
At any rate we can now hold that our system of clothing
has come through a severer test than any other,
fur included.
Effect of Journey
Wilson lost 3 1/2 lbs.; Bowers
lost 2 1/2 lbs.; C.-Garrard lost 1 lb.
CHAPTER
XIII - THE RETURN OF THE SUN