Food in Antarctica
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Pemmican
Anyone who is in the slightest acquainted with stories of
polar exploration up to about 1950 will have heard of Pemmican. This is an early
form of a processed food first invented by the Hudson Bay Company and based on
traditional Native North American Indian recipes. It was planned
to be very compact, very nutritious and to remain edible for a long time.
There are many recipes for Pemmican, but basically it consists
of a mixture of pounded dried beef with beef fat - other meats or mixtures of
meats may be substituted for beef. Explorers of the heroic age of
Antarctic exploration would take great care in where they bought their Pemmican
from and the recipe that it was made to. Pemmican would provide nearly half
of the total calories eaten out in "the field".
Pemmican
was basic nutritious food that also had the added advantage of remaining edible
for years though it is not terribly appetizing. It was often made up into a
thick meat soup when simmered with melted snow known as "Hoosh", this
was eaten with butter-laden sledging biscuits.
Today,
pemmican is gaining something of a resurgence as it is prepared and eaten as a
snack-food by body-builders and the like, although they often cheat by putting
berries in with it. I found recipes on the net for all kinds of meat
ingredients, kangaroo seems popular in Australia. The best I tasted was made of reindeer from
the herd that are naturalized
on South Georgia (released by whalers and sealers) - it was also about 8 years old at the time I ate it. As a
savoury
snack, I prefer pork scratchings.
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Make your own pemmican
1. Dehydrate strips of raw red meat
on a low heat in the oven. About 2-6lbs for a batch. Ask the
butcher to slice it for you as thinly as possible. It should be completely
dry but not cooked. If it cooks, it will taste gritty when finished.
2. Grind the dehydrated strips up. The
Indians pounded them with rocks, but a food processor is probably more
acceptable in the modern kitchen. Spices or berries can be added at this time.
3. Prepare the tallow (for binding
it all together) by rendering animal fat. Melt strips of beef fat
(possibly free from the butchers - "you want to do what with
it?!!") in a frying pan on a low heat until the rinds float to the
surface (throw them away).
Carry on
heating the resulting tallow until all moisture is removed. It is very
important to remove all water from the fat to prevent it going rancid
(yuck).
Proper tallow can be made from beef fat (suet is best) or lamb fat but not
from pork fat as this won't set hard enough when cool. Tallow when cold
looks like candle wax in colour and consistency.
4. When the resulting tallow is
cold
enough to touch but still liquid, add it slowly to the meat powder mixing
thoroughly, until
all of it is just saturated. This is about a 60:40 meat:tallow ratio by
weight.
5. Mould the finished product into tins
or whatever - manly bone shapes or gingerbread men moulds etc. When it hardens you've finished.
Store in a dry place.
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Sledging Biscuits
Along
with Pemmican, sledging biscuits are a part of polar lore. They are
approximately 2" x 3" (5 x 7.5 cm) and fairly thick for biscuits. They
are hard and rather like the boring plain ones you get left in a mixed box of
"biscuits for cheese" at Christmas.
Along with
pemmican sledging biscuits were - and still are - one of the mainstays of food
for Antarctic field parties. So much so in fact that sledging biscuits from
Scott's 1912 polar expedition and Shackleton's voyage to South Georgia on the
James Caird have even come up at auction in the last few years with price tags
of many $1,000's. Ordinary ones are cheaper however.
Scurvy
Scurvy is a deficiency disease caused by lack of
vitamin C (ascorbic acid). It was a common complaint on sailing ships before
about 1900. Humans are one of the few animals (along with monkeys and guinea
pigs) that are unable to make vitamin C from other components of the diet. We
have to consume it ready made in our food.
The
body stores enough vitamin C for about three months. It is found in a whole
range of foods, but especially fresh fruits and vegetables. Now as you have
already learnt, fresh fruits and vegetables are not common in Antarctica even
today. So for early explorers in particular, scurvy was a very real
problem. Polar exploration (amongst other exploits) resulted in scurvy as
much as anything because it had been relatively rare since 1803 when the Royal
Navy introduced citrus fruits, lemons and limes to combat it. By the end of that
century it was such a distant problem that those who suffered from it did not
recognise the early stages that their grandfathers would have spotted straight
away.
Those going to the Arctic
generally had an easier time of it as game is generally more common than in the
Antarctic. Where explorers could eat fresh meat (raw) they could usually escape the effects
of scurvy. Even though meat contains relatively little vitamin C it does contain
enough. Another factor contributing to scurvy is that vitamin C in stored food breaks down over
time and is also broken down by cooking. Some expeditions had considerable quantities of lemon juice (fresh lemon
juice is a good source of the vitamin - not the best though) but still the
members fell ill with scurvy as the vitamin C in the juice deteriorated until it
was no longer effective.
Symptoms:
Insufficient vitamin C affects the body's production of collagen - a protein in
connective tissue that surrounds body structures and holds them together. When
someone has scurvy, collagen is still produced, but it is unstable and causes small
blood vessels to become weak and wounds to be poorly held together.
Haemorrhages
can occur any where in the body, but are most obvious in the skin where they
cause widespread bruising. Bleeding from the gums and loosening of teeth is
common. Bleeding into muscles and joints also occurs causing pain, tiredness and
disorientation. If no vitamin
C is available then eventually death is caused usually by bleeding into and
around the brain.
A particularly
gruesome symptom of scurvy is that old wounds re-open. Wounds are kept
closed by scar tissue with a high proportion of collagen, this collagen is
continually replaced in the healthy body. With scurvy, the replacement collagen
is defective and so wounds from decades beforehand can re-open and bleed once
again. Life at sea was a rough and dangerous existence so the men most likely to
get scurvy were also those who would most quickly suffer the most from it by old
wounds re-opening. On
one Arctic expedition in 1875 an Admiralty surgeon specified that no sailors
with "old wounds" would be accepted.
In
particularly unfortunate individuals;
"Scurvy can reduce the body to a bloated
yellow carcass daubed with purple, red and green blotches caused by previous
bouts of bleeding of differing ages. The skin itches viciously and where
scratched can erupt into suppurating ulcers. The flesh literally falls away
reeking of putrefaction."
The cure for
scurvy is simply to administer large quantities of vitamin C, noticeable
improvement occurs within 24 hours.
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Scurvy tales |
 | Lemons, and oranges (and later on, limes) were discovered to be a
cure for scurvy in 1747 when James Lind a Royal naval surgeon on
board HMS Salisbury gave different cures to six pairs of scurvy
victims. One lucky pair had two oranges and a lemon in addition to
their normal food and were soon strong enough to help nurse the
others. Foods that contain vitamin C and can fight off scurvy are
sometimes called "scorbutic". |
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 | Ernest Shackleton suffered from scurvy on Scott's
Discovery Expedition in 1901 - 1904 and had to be sent home sick on a
relief ship that arrived. Several other members of the ship's crew
and expedition also showed symptoms. The reason was that lime juice
was taken as a source of vitamin C, and it's not really that good. Lemons have about twice as much, but one of the best things of
all are blackcurrants with four times as much, they also grow really
well in Britain whereas lemons and limes don't - but their high
vitamin C content wasn't known
at the time. |
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 | Some expeditions, took supplies of cress seed or
bean seeds with them. If any of the men looked like they were
coming down with scurvy, the seeds would be sprouted and fed to the
ill man. As the seeds grew, they made vitamin C and so worked to make it on demand. Unfortunately, this was not
widely known about or practiced. |
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 | On the expedition on board the Belgica from
1897-1898, the leader and ship's captain both became ill with scurvy.
Roald Amundsen (later to be the first to reach the South Pole) and
Frederick Cook (later to claim to be the first to reach the North
Pole), rallied the crew and forced them to eat a diet of raw seal
meat to overcome scurvy. It worked and no-one else fell ill
because of it. |
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