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Leaving Hobart

The Aurora in pack ice |
Aurora /
Mawson 1911-1914
Bert Lincoln
was an Able Bodied ordinary seaman on board the SY Aurora during a trip
lasting just under three months from Hobart to Commonwealth Bay Antarctica
and back again to relieve Mawson's expedition during its second summer,
the middle of a three summer and two winter expedition. What follows is Bert's diary
of the voyage.It is typed it as it is written.
There is an occasional word or letters that I have not been able to
interpret, at these points I have written a row of dashes ----- or
wrapped question
marks around the word where I have ?guessed?
This page - Page 3 - in This
page Antarctica
Friday Jan 24th
The launch
did not get ashore until about 10 oclock this morning when the mate
and his five men went ashore to work at the wireless masts. The rest
of us have been working among the stores all day, by watch and watch
clearing up and restowing and getting up odd things that had to go
ashore, as, if Mawson does not turn up by the end of the month, a
party which is already picked will have to stay at this base till
next summer. About 2 o'clock this afternoon the launch was hoisted
out of the water, as the wind was getting too strong for it to go
ashore any more, so the mate and his two will have to stay ashore
till the wind eases off again. To-night the wind is screaming
through the rigging although we are under the lee of the glacier
which is four or five hundred feet high altogether, and the ship is
straining heavily at her anchor. If she should break away we would
have to set out till it came calm weather again, then pick up the
mate and the two sailors, and probably go and pick up the men at the
second base and clear off home to Australia. It is one good thing
here all the heavy blows come off shore so that we are under the
lees & in some measure have a little shelter and if anything goes
wrong we get blown off shore, whereas, if we had the wind from the
sea and the shore to leeward of us and we carried away our cable we
should be on the rocks and ice in about two minutes and it would be
the last of the Aurora and her crew then s she would get smashed
like an eggshell, strong though she is, and the wind blows that
heavy here that if it came the same from the open sea we would have
no chance what ever of holding on and no hope of steaming out in the
face of it, so it is lucky for us that the wind is pretty
dependable. It only varies from south to south-east when blowing
with any strength here. Since we lost our other anchor and cable,
we have the weaker (viz lighter) cable in use and the question
"Will your anchor hold" is much in use
among us and "Are we downhearted" - "No".
Saturday Jan 25th
The wind was still blowing strong this morning but it eased off
a little towards midday. It was exceedingly cold this morning and
the other watch had to scrub out the forecastle and the square
outside it. Our watch, in which the big Dane and myself are the only
members on board, had to finish the square when we came on deck at
midday to keep the twelve to six watch this afternoon, then we had
to bag some coal to be sent ashore. after this was done the wind
calmed suddenly, so we had to lower the launch in the water and put
some thirteen bags of coal in her and the two ice baskets and she
put off for shore with two men belonging to shore and our chief
engineer. When the boat got ashore after getting close in under
the ice, the wind rose again stronger than ever and prevented the
boat coming back again as it should have done to bring off the mate
and the two sailors. The wind was blowing from the south and getting
stronger all the time, and 10 minutes to 8 to night it suddenly
swung round to east and blew something awful with the result that
the ship gave a lurch on her cable and broke it, and started
drifting away to leeward, broadside on. It was our dog-watch from
seven till eight so I ran below and caught up a quartermaster's top
coat and rushed to the wheel calling out the other watch from the
forecastle before I went aft. The wind by this time was so strong
that one had to hold on tight and pull yourself with your arms from
place to place. I had a terrible job to stay on the grating to
steer. After a hard tussle I got the helm hard up and the ship
started to pay off from the wind, but she did not go off far when
the cable dragging overboard stopped her although she still drifted
away bodily to leeward. Then the boatswain and the four other
sailors got the cable in and she answered her helm, and we blew down
the bay before the wind while the crew got everything movable about
the decks lashed securely. By 9.20 things were a bit ship-shape and
one a man from the other watch relieved me at the wheel, when our
watch (The Dane and myself) went below. The ship was beating about
the bay until midnight just keeping position and a big sea was
mounting up. The bay has been named Commonwealth Bay by Mawson and
the Aurora is the only ship that has been here, consequently, it is
not charted and when we had low tides the other day some ugly rocks
showed above the surface and we were in danger of hitting some at
any time during the struggle as we could not see them.
Sunday Jan 26th 1913
Our watch came on deck at midnight and the other watch were not
allowed to turn in but had to hold themselves in readiness or as it
is called aboard ship "Stand by". The Dane had the wheel from twelve
till two, when I relieved him. During the two hours from 12 to 2. We
had to brace the yards about six times as we kept putting about and
the wind would keep suddenly shifting as much as eight points-which
of course is a quarter-and sometimes even as much as sixteen points
which is half-way round the compass. When I relieved the wheelman at
two o'clock I had to stay there of course until 8 bells four
o'clock, during which time the crew had to get our spare anchor out
of the fore-hatchway on to the forecastle head which was a ticklish
piece of work, when such a storm was blowing. With the aid of the
topsail halyards the trawl boom, and its gear and plenty of tackles
and the steam windlass and steam winch, the anchor was at last
safely landed on the starboard side of the fore-castle-head just
abaft the cathead, and the cable was hauled out through the port
hawse pipe (it was stowed in the port locker and had to be over the
port side of the windlass as we have not got the starboard side
minded yet) with the trawl wise and access to the anchor, passing
under the bobstay and was shackled on to the ring of the anchor
which was then lowered over the side ready for dropping. The job was
finished by four o'clock but in the meantime the ship had beaten
back to her anchorage and had to put about, but when the anchor was
ready she headed up again to the anchorage which she reached about
7.30 and the anchor was dropped in thirteen fathoms of water and all
the cable we have left, which is only sixty fathoms was paid out,
and all the emergency tackles and gear such as anchor buoy etc. were
fixed up by eight o'clock. When I was relieved at four o'clock
from the wheel the captain called all hands aft to "Splice the
mainbrace". then my watch-mate and myself went down to the
forecastle and slept in our clothes with our feet to the bogey. but
as it happened we were not called out before 7.20 (breakfast time).
We went on deck at eight o'clock and the P.O's viz boatswain and
sailmaker who had been on duty continuously for 24 hours by then
went below & also the other watch, which had lost their watch below
from 12 to 4. This is the first time since I joined the ship that
a watch-below has been lost by the other watch, at every other time
that all hands were needed our watch was the unlucky one that had to
lose a watch below. At eight o'clock this morning the chief mate
and chief engineer and the two sailors tried to put off from shore
to the ship and after being nearly drowned were driven back, but at
eleven o'clock the chief mate& engineer accompanied by Mr. Eitel
(the sec of the expedition) reached the ship in safety leaving the
two sailors ashore at the camp. The captain was mad with the mate
for leaving the two sailors ashore, because if we lose our present
anchoring gear which is not at all dependable, we can't do anything
but clear off to the others base at Gosberge leaving the people here
who have plenty of stores, to wait till next summer to be taken
home, and so if anything happens we will have a job to get our two
men aboard before we go and the ship is too short handed without
them. The weather was too windy for the launch to go ashore again
for the two men so we hoisted it in the davits. When we left
Hobart we had altogether 245 fathoms of cable and 3 anchors one
being a spare one, and was stowed down below. Now we have only that
spare anchor left and 60 fathoms of cable. The cable which broke
last night was a full length merchant ship's cable 120 fathoms and
we lost the anchor and 60 fathoms of cable chain thus leaving us 60
fths. The anchor we lost before carried 125 fathoms of Navy cable
with it and the cable was exceptionally strong, so now we call our
anchor with its short length of weak cable, "Our Forlorn Hope." and
it will be one of the greatest miracles that have ever happened if
it holds on until we are ready to leave here. We have not only to be
afraid of the cable breaking again but also of the anchor dragging
as the less the cable paid out, the more the anchor will drag and it
used to drag some with 90 fathoms of cable out. Last night when the
cable parted we were riding on 105 fathoms of cable so it snapped
away and water. We have the last anchor we lost buoyed so we will
know just where to drag for it. if the captain decides to stay which
I think is useless.
Monday Jan 27th
1913
While our watch was below in bunk
for the 12 till4 watch this morning, the captain gave orders at 2
o'clock to call all hands and hoist the motor launch higher in the
davits than she had been hanging all night, so we had to get out of
bunk and get busy. We were finished by 10 minutes to 3, so we turned
in again for an hour, but our watch below was spoiled and of course
it rankled especially as this was an unnecessary job for the launch
had hung in the same position in much worse weather and had come to
no harm, and another cause of discontent was the fact that there are
two steam winches on deck and both available to hoist the launch
with but as one watch could have done the job with ease by using
steam, the officers would not allow the steam to be used but made us
turn out and all hands pull and strain at it. The officers here are
all except one, steamboat officers and yet they have not the
slightest idea of the use of steam for anything but the engines, oh
they are a queer lot. To join this ship a sailor must be a sailor
and used to square rigged sailing vessels, so when we see our
passenger steamer officers la-de-da ing around making us a lot of
unnecessary work we naturally curse steamboats and their officers
up-hill and down dale. Our watch was below again this morning
from eight o'clock till twelve (midday). Shortly after 8.30 the
watch on deck lowered the launch into the water and it was sent
ashore to bring off the other two sailors which it did arriving back
about 10 o'clock. The weather now became rather squally and at about
11.15 the cable parted about 15 fathoms from the anchor so now we
only have 45 fathoms of cable left. Our list of accidents during our
fortnight here, is as follows
1st
One Anchor (starboard) and
125 fathoms of Navy cable
2nd Smashed up
starboard side of windlass trying to recover lost
anchor
3rd
Lost Port
anchor and
60 fathoms cable
4th
Lost also our
spare anchor and
15 fathoms of cable
Thus we have lost 3 Anchors and 200 fathoms of cable
altogether
and have smashed up our windlass. |
It is a wonder that our captain does not steam ahead slowly when
the squalls come, and take some of the ship's weight off her cable
but I suppose he is too much of a numb skull to know that and of
course if he does not know it, we can't tell him as he is captain
and thinks he knows everything. and his fellow officers are jackie
know-alls too in their own estimations. We are now steaming and
drifting about the bay as we can't very well anchor as we only have
a little kedge anchor that one man can pick up and carry with a bit
of exertion.
Tuesday Jan 28th
1913
After drifting and steaming about
the bay all night we dropped the little kedge in about 10 fathoms of
water at 8.30 this morning. The other watch had shackled the kedge
on to the remaining piece of cable during the 4 to 8 watch this
morning. The kedge was dropped and heaved up again a couple of
times before it gripped but at last it held. About 10 o'clock the
kedge anchor started to drag when a puff of wind struck the ship and
after dragging for a couple of minutes it gripped again but only
held for about 10 minutes then the ship's head swung round till she
was broadside on and she began to drift quickly to leeward. We
started to heave in, but as the cable does not fit the windlass
barrel, it took us nearly to dinnertime, because we had to keep
tackles and wires on the cable to prevent it running out as the
windlass tried to heave in. I had a dangerous job down the chain
---- stowing it as it came down, and two or three times at first it
took charge and all ran out and it would stop with a terrible jerk
when it came to the end, as the end was fast around the mast at the
keelson. We are drifting about the bay now and have been ever since
dinnertime as we found when we got the kedge aboard that one fluke
was broken clean off down at the crown of the anchor so it is now
practically useless even as a kedge anchor of it we could not expect
so small an anchor to stand the strain when used as a main anchor.
We only steam to avoid any ice that comes floating by or when a
squall strikes us, so that the ship does not drift ashore. The motor
launch has been plying between the ship and the shore all the
afternoon taking stores ashore and bringing off stuff that has to go
to Australia such as scientific specimens. It is pretty certain that
a party will have to stay here till next year and many of those
ashore are of opinion that Dr. Mawson is now dead unless he has got
to the coast to the westward and is living on penguins and sealmeat.
But of course the men that stay here will search for him if the
search party which are out at present do not find him. We are
supposed to leave here in a couple of days time and go west to the
other base at Gosberge. Kaiser Wilhelm II Land and pick up the
other party then go home to Australia probably to Sydney. We, the
sailors and firemen will not be sorry to reach Sydney and pay off.
Wednesday Jan 29th 1913
We drifted about the bay this morning till 6.40 then just as I
relieved the wheel the captain came on the bridge and rang full
speed ahead and we steamed back near the camp in the teeth of a
pretty stiff breeze. When we arrived off the camp we turned and went
along the coast to the eastward, We are to be away for three days
searching the coast of Adelie Land to the east. We have been
steaming along about three miles offshore and threading our way
among large icebergs all day & the officers have been scanning the
ice and numerous small islands along the coastline, through glasses
and telescopes and going aloft to the crows nest but we did not
sight any signs of Mawson today. We have had to keep sounding about
every half hour all day as this coast is unchartered. we do it with
a machine on the poop as the ship is moving. This afternoon when I
relieved the man at the wheel, he reported the course to the mate on
the navigation bridge and then he went to the big telescope which
was mounted on its stand near by the wheel on the steering bridge an
away from the officers and was just going to have a look when the
mate happened to see him, and snarled out "Keep your eyes out of
that Schroeder" as if the man would defile it by looking through
Schroeder then said "I am only looking for Dr. Mawson" the mate
snapped back "never mind Dr. Mawson, get off". Such things on the
part of officers in a ship which is kept up by public money seem
rather nasty to our way of thinking and if the officers only heard
us talking in the forecastle sometimes their ears would burn as they
would know how much we despise them.
Thursday Jan 30th 1913
We are still steaming along the coast looking for Mawson. This
morning at 4 o'clock we had to start keeping a lookout in the
crows-nest at the main-truck. We were then steaming along close
under the great ice-barrier and wind which was blowing strong was
right from the ice to us making it pretty cold. This morning at 7.30
the temperature was 20° and at midday it was 23°. The man in the
crows-nest can see very little more than those on deck as the face
of the ice-barrier is from 100tf to 150 ft high rising perpendicular
from the water, and the crows nest is about 85 ft high. We stopped
at midday in an inlet of the barrier and took a sounding getting a
rock-bottom at 340 fathoms, thus showing that the barrier is afloat
and not covering over land, as the ice only has one foot above water
to seven feet below and the sounding was taken close alongside the
icebarrier. We sighted a range of mountains in the far distance
thus showing that we were still in the vicinity of land. We have
been going to the eastwards from the base as it was eastwards Mawson
travelled from the base. We have been firing rockets about every
half hour today and to night and this morning a kite was flying from
the poop. The rockets are fired from the poop and they then burst
six hundred feet in the air. All this of course is to attract
Mawson's attention if he is anywhere close. About ten o'clock
tonight we sighted heavy pack ice stretching for miles and miles to
the port beam from ahead with the ice-barrier on our starboard side
and about eleven o'clock we put about and steamed back along the ice
barrier towards the base at full speed. We were only to be away from
the base for three days and we have been travelling away from it for
two days now. so we will be a little over three days away by the
time we get back.
Friday Jan
31st 1913
We are still on our way back
to the main-base. we are steering from point to point of the ice as
our steering comp is very sluggish and the ship is almost about
before the compass shows she is swinging from her course. This is
caused by our proximity to the south magnetic pole. We had to keep
lookout today again in the crows nest but as we did not nose in so
close to the edge of the ice the officer gave us a telescope in the
nest. We passed many very pretty icebergs today and some we
passed very close and the men forward who had cameras were busy
taking snapshots whenever we passed close to an exceptionally grand
berge. They have to do it on the sly of course as we sign articles
in the ship not to take any specimens, photos or keep a diary nor to
say anything concerning the expedition for a period of at least
twelve months after the expedition is finished. This if course is to
allow Mawson and his scientists and ship's officers to spin their
tales without being contradicted by the sailors because if the
people of Australia knew as much of it as a man in the forecastle
they would be disgusted at the whole affair and on account of this
captain and officers like to keep us ignorant of everything, but by
saying nothing and
watching everything we learn a lot and
as one or two men who smoodge to the officers and scientists learn a
bit more and pass it on to the rest of us, we know of most of the
doings of the expedition. We are supposed to leave the main base
tomorrow for the base at Gaussberge. The weather is pretty cold
and wherever a spray lands on board it freezes. the main deck is
covered with slush and ice and the bulwarks are covered with a
coating of ice on the outside. We arrived at the main base
to-night about 9.30 and are now cruising to and fro till morning
when the motor launch is expected off. We now have a couple of hours
at night from eleven o'clock to one when it is a bit dark. We expect
to be about a fortnight on the way west to Gosberge where Mr. Wild
(one of Shackleton's men) is in command and to only be there a
couple of days, then, if the weather is mild enough, come here again
before we leave the Antarctic in case Mawson has reached the base
during our absence. The temperature tonight is 20° which is 12°
of frost. While we were lying at the base and losing anchors we
had the thermometer on board as low as 6° above zero one day on the
same day ashore it was 2° above zero, whilst several times our
thermometers showed 10° to 12° above zero but we do not notice 10°
with calm nearly so much as 20° when windy weather. The wind makes
the cold cut.
Saturday Feb 1st 1913
We are still off and on shore at the main base waiting for a bit
of fine weather to get the motor launch aboard and the men who have
to go home with us and so go to Gaussberge but the weather is still
very windy with plenty of snow and cold. The ship is continually
taking sprays over and the decks and rigging are covered with slushy
snow and ice and from every projection there are icicles hanging and
the outsides of the bullwarks are white with frozen sprays just as
if a coat of white paint had been put on. The temperature is down to
18° which is fourteen degrees of frost. When we came on deck this
morning at 8 o'clock we had to set to and shovel the snow and ice
overboard, we could not sweep it through the scuppers as they are
all frozen up. When that job was done we had to make ?sennett?
(plaiting ropeyarns) for rovings which are used to bend the sails to
the yards with. When we are steaming up against the wind the
engines are opened up to their utmost speed and the ship just crawls
to windward when we get near the base and go about the engines are
slowed down to dead-slow and she sailed down to leeward pretty
quickly although we set no sails at all. Although we are close to
the land and in the lee of it still there is a bit of sea on making
it a bit awkward to write as she is lurching & rolling a little. It
is pretty cold at the wheel in this weather and we think of the warm
weather in Australia now, but we have plenty of warm clothes so it
does not cause us any very terrible hardship. Then we have a nice
little bogey in the forecastle. Mawson is now a long time overdue
and there is very little chance of him going back to Australia this
year if at all. The old chap who joined the ship in Hobart as
harpooner and A.B. got his foot hurt the other day, by getting
a smack with the piston rod of the windlass, but he is able to get
about again now and he turned to again yesterday.
Sunday Feb 2nd 1913
The weather has been worse than ever to-day this morning on our
watch on deck at 4 o'clock you could not see more than a ship's
length in any direction as it was snowing hard. As our compasses are
not much use for straight steering and we could not see our marks on
shore to steer by we had to steer by the direction of the wind and
sea. About 6 o'clock the snow ceased for a while when I was at the
wheel and I was not sorry to have a mark to steer by again. This
is the sort of Sunday we like here in the "Aurora" as we do not get
any work in such weather, but in fine weather all the big and
important jobs are left until Sunday so that we do not get the
benefit of Sunday. I spent the day, when it was my watch on deck
in the fore-castle near the bogey in the galley then a trick at the
wheel and of course in bunk on my watch below. The rigging is all
covered over with ice and the lanyards of the rigging are blocks of
solid ice as are also the jibboom, catheads and everything which is
in an exposed position. The ship is having a hard battle of it
for although we are in the lee of the land (or ice) still the wind
is that strong that a big sea is running and it is very fascinating
at the wheel steering as the wind gets under her weather bow and
forces her off a bit, then a sea gives her a smack on the w. bow and
sends her off more but you are shifting the helm down and watching
every move pitching and rolling. Then after a shudder and tremble
she answers the hlem and forces her nose slowly up to windward
amidst clouds of spray and as we are steering nearly into the wind
one way then running before it the other sprays soar up in the
air as high as the topsail ---- then come whistling down all over
the ship and as far aft as the engine room and arefrozen by the time
they land on deck.
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